The Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu and Cusco: A Journey into Peru's Heart
Travel Day - 3 September 2026 - From BNA through ATL to LIM
The day began with quiet anticipation, as it always does before any trip. I had already packed my bags the previous Sunday. My driver arrived early, and we headed to the airport. I quickly went through TSA PreCheck without touching anything, then stopped at Hudson’s to buy a bottle of water. When I reached the gate, it was busy, but I was glad my seat was in row 2. The plane landed early at ATL, and I made a beeline for the restroom. Then I headed to the Delta Sky Club and stayed there for about 40 minutes. The lounge was very crowded, with loud children everywhere.
After the Sky Club, I headed to the departure gate for my flight to Lima. The gate area was quieter than the lounge. After a while, boarding began. Shortly afterward, the ram air turbine generator required maintenance and had to be replaced. Then, 46 minutes late, the plane finally departed. About an hour into the flight, Delta One began dinner service. I had pre-selected the spinach artichoke ravioli, which was okay. Soon after, I enjoyed a strawberry mousse cake for dessert. About halfway through the flight, I decided to watch Star Trek (2009). It was my first time using my TwelveSouth AirFly Pro, and it paired easily with my Apple AirPods and worked well. The movie helped me get through the rest of the flight.
Once we landed, I quickly cleared customs and immigration and stepped into the arrivals area. The Belmond representative, Jorge, was waiting for me there. We got into the car with the driver and headed to the Belmond Miraflores Park Hotel. The drive took about 40-45 minutes. Along the way, the representative shared information about Lima and the area around the hotel, as well as Cusco and Peruvian cuisine. When we arrived, I checked in, settled into my room, and took a shower after a long day on the plane.
Day Two - 4 September 2026 - Flying into Cusco and heading down into the Sacred Valley
I woke up early, without an alarm, at 5:34 am and got ready for the day. I went to the eleventh floor for breakfast and had delicious local pastries. I checked out and exchanged some larger currency at the front desk. The rep from the previous night met me in the lobby and took me to the airport. We arrived at the airport around 8:10 am and went through security. I sat in the main waiting area for the domestic gates. However, I was pretty sure of the gate. The board said it wouldn’t be announced until later. Finally, they announced that the plane was boarding at another gate, and the arriving plane was slightly delayed, so our departure was delayed too. Once the arriving plane had deplaned, we boarded and headed to Cusco. Just before landing, I felt like my bladder was going to burst because of the acetazolamide altitude sickness medication I took earlier that day.
After landing, I found the nearest bathroom, used it, then met my guide, Ruben, who was waiting for me in the parking lot. We headed to the Museo Sulca Textiles, which produces handwoven items from alpaca and llama wool and also features a museum dedicated to woven textiles. At the museum/textile center, I learned a lot about the history of Incan textiles and the meanings behind the patterns. In their barn area, I fed a Guanaco, an alpaca, and a llama. I was surprised that the llamas were friendlier than I expected. In their shop, which offers locally made baby alpaca goods, I bought two baby alpaca chullos. The baby alpaca wool is super soft.
After that, we made our way down to Pisac, a market town with stalls and shops selling various goods, and explored the town and the central plaza. We stopped at a local place that has been baking bread the same way for many, many hundreds of years. It was interesting. Then we saw a guinea pig palace where the guinea pigs are kept near the kitchen. We also stopped at a local silversmith shop to see how they make the purest silver jewelry, which the town is known for. After exploring the town, we headed to the Belmond Rio Sagrado Hotel.
I checked in, went to my room, and relaxed a bit while taking care of a few things. Before I knew it, it was time for my dinner reservation at Muju, the restaurant on the hotel property. I had a wonderful trout dish with asparagus and a local potato sauce, along with a delicious potato soup. For dessert, I had carrot cake with cream, strawberries, and a chocolate cracker cookie. The bread with herbed butter was also excellent. Tomorrow is one of our major days, with visits to different places, and I am looking forward to it.
Day Three - 5 September 2026 - Ollyantaytambo, Mara’s Salt Pans, Moray, and UNU Restaurant
This morning, I woke up early, got ready, and went down to the restaurant below for breakfast. I had an amazing breakfast. I ate a pan de chocolate, assorted fruits, and quinoa pancakes with strawberries, blueberries, and another fruit, all with maple syrup and bacon. At 9 am, my guide, Ruben, picked me up at the hotel, and we went to the sun temple at Ollantaytambo first and walked up to the fifth terrace for an amazing view of the town below. Ollantaytambo was a temple area at the top, with a resting area below for people traveling the Incan roads. It also has a water temple that aligns with the solstice. The Inca king would bathe in the temple’s water once a year to purify himself. The town itself has a water channel running through it, fed by a stream from the Andes Mountains.
Then we went to the Maras salt pans, where a cooperative of 400 families owns more than 4,000 salt pans. It was interesting to learn how they produced salt from the area’s minerals and water. I bought a grinder of flor de sal and two small chocolates made with it.
After the Maras Salt Pans, we went to Moray to see the Incan terrace circles, which are perfect circles. The guide explained that they used them to research which crops would grow best in different climates and that they developed over 3,000 varieties of potatoes and 300 varieties of corn. Then we headed to the UNU Restaurant in Tiobamba, where we had an amazing lunch. After that, we made our way back to my hotel. It was a wonderful day visiting some amazing sites.
Day Four - 6 September 2026 - Hiram Bingham, Sanctuary Lodge, and Machu Picchu Circuit 2
This morning, I woke up excited for the day ahead. I got ready, repacked my luggage, then went down the stairs to the lower terrace where the restaurant served breakfast. I chose the same amazing breakfast as the day before.
The road to Ollantaytambo is under construction, so I am boarding the train in Panchar instead. The Belmond representative, Giovanni, and the Belmond driver picked me up at the hotel at 9:45 am, and we drove to the train station, where we waited for the Hiram Bingham train. At the station, the attendant also served as the train steward, so he joined us on board. They put my luggage in the train’s storage area and then took it up to the hotel once we arrived in Aguas Calientes. The service on the train was 7 stars, which is amazing on a 1-to-5 rating system.
Lunch was beef tenderloin and other regional dishes, all of which were very good. The dessert was mango, which was also good. The views from the train to Aguas Calientes were beautiful. Once we arrived in the town, we boarded a bus to Machu Picchu. At Machu Picchu, my guide, Ruben, met me, informed the Belmond Sanctuary Lodge staff of my arrival, and they checked me into my room. My room was upgraded, which was a nice surprise.
We entered the Citadel at 2:10 pm and completed Circuit Number 2. We spent more than two hours in Machu Picchu, and he taught me a lot about a different area of the site and what the Incas used it for. It was very informative and educational, and also inspiring, if not just for the llamas and the chinchillas. After the circuit, I returned to my hotel room and freshened up for my 7 o’clock dining reservation.
When I went down to the restaurant for my 7 o’clock reservation, I had no idea how awesome the food would be. I started with a local soup, then had a white fish main course that was very good, and for dessert I had local-flavored ice creams that were amazing. They also served bread with a special butter made with a local ingredient. The food was amazing, almost like a Michelin-starred three in my book.
Day Five - 7 September 2026 - Machu Picchu Circuit 3 and Gardens of Sanctuary Lodge
This morning at 7 AM, we returned to the Citadel and completed Circuit 3. That was perfect for Machu Picchu, which sits in the cloud forest. Circuit 3 takes you through the ruins of Machu Picchu, so you can see what’s left of the royal area, the concubine area, and the Knowledge House, where children were taught. The Circuit also includes the Sun Temple and the famous Condor Temple, with its underground chamber.
The views from there were amazing, with the mountains kissed by fog this morning. For lunch, I ate at Tinkuy’s buffet. It was okay for a buffet, but nowhere near as good as Tampo the night before. After lunch, I went back out to the quiet terrace, embraced by the clouds. I took some pictures of the orchids, bromeliads, and other flowers around the terrace and in the cloud garden.
So what is my recommendation for visiting Machu Picchu in 2026? Try to get tickets for Circuit 2 or Circuit 3. If you can’t get either, try Circuit 1, but it only leads to a viewing point and then back down. I also had a ticket for Circuit 1, but I decided not to do it because I already had some amazing photos.
Later that day, around 4 o’clock, I went to the group area to board the bus to the train station and then take the Hiram Bingham train to Poroy. The meal on the train was just as amazing as visiting Machu Picchu. Soon after arriving at the Poroy station, the driver and the representative, Sebastian, took me to the Belmond Monasterio Hotel, where I checked in and received a room key. The key was a large, old, historic-style key you find at monasteries. My room had supplemental oxygen to help with the altitude.
Day Six - 8 September 2026 - Cusco City Tour, Temples, Cathedrals, and Markets
I went down this morning at about 6:45 a.m. and had four wonderful pastries for breakfast. After that, I went back up to my room and fiddled around a bit until it was time to go down to the lobby at 9:30 to meet my guide, Ruben, for the morning walking tour.
We went to the Qorikancha site museum, and my guide explained how the site was built and why the stones lean the way they do to keep them stable during seismic activity. The accuracy of the stonework, both in its alignment with the stars and the sun and in how the stones were shaped and put together, was amazing. Then we saw a painting showing how the Incas viewed the night sky by looking for certain constellations.
After Qorikancha, we went to the Cusco Cathedral, and again, my guide walked me through the significance of the statuary and the paintings, explaining how they made the Virgin Mary’s garments look more mountain-like to blend in with the Inca’s worship of Pachamama. The statuary and the amount of gold leaf in the Cathedral were inspiring. We also saw the Last Supper painting, which had a very Peruvian twist, with the bread being a local type of bread.
Next on our city tour was the San Pedro Market. The market is a thriving local place where you can find almost anything you can imagine, from health drinks, dried meats, fruits, and vegetables to prepared foods and stalls for people seeking psychedelic experiences. And, of course, there were stalls geared toward tourists, selling tourist trinkets. The market’s smells and aromas were amazing. After the market tour, we did the city tour for the day, and it was time for lunch. My guide suggested a few restaurants, and I chose a Peruvian-Chinese restaurant.
My guide took me to the Peruvian-Chinese restaurant Kion. The food was very good, and I was pleasantly surprised. For my starter, I had Chun Kun, a chicken spring roll. For my main dish, I had Saltado, which featured chicken, sprouts, green onions, bell pepper, and Kion sauce. I had still bottled water for my drink. The food was amazing.
Afterward, I went to see the twelve-sided stone and the guard dog that guards it. Then I went back to the hotel to reorganize some things and decide whether I wanted to do any more activities. I decided to go back out and see if I could find more fridge magnets for my fridge for the Cusco trip. I stumbled upon Artesanía Mendivil and was amazed by the items they had for sale. The fridge magnets were top-notch, so I bought four magnets. After my magnet purchases, I went down to the Plaza de Armas and took great pictures of the Cusco Cathedral and the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús in the square. Then I walked back to the hotel and wound down for the evening.
Day Seven - 9 September 2026 - Saqsaywaman, Qenqo, Apertivos, and afternoon shopping
This morning, I woke before my alarm and got ready to head down for breakfast. I had the same pastries and orange juice as the day before, then went back to my room for a short nap before heading to Qenqo and Saqsaywaman.
At 9:30 a.m., I met my guide and driver, and we went to Qenqo, where the Incas practiced mummification. It was incredible. Learning how the Incas viewed the afterlife and how mummification played a role in that was fascinating. Walking through the caves, where the air was cool year-round and dry, made for ideal mummification conditions. They used salt and other herbs to mummify the Incan Kings after removing the vital organs and fluids that would hinder mummification. Looking at the stone they carved for the table where they performed mummification was amazing, seeing how it was the perfect height and slant for all the fluids from the body to drain. The area was not spooky at all, but quite calming. There is also a stone outside the caves near the entrance that, at the right time of year, casts a shadow in the form of a puma.
After that, we went to Saqsaywaman and spent a lot of time there, learning about the area and marveling at the stonework’s craftsmanship. The stonework was amazing, with precise joints and stones pillowed out so water never got into the cracks and caused issues. The stones are laid out in a zig-zag pattern that either represents a snake or a puma’s mouth. Also on the top of the site is the foundation of a round building where the last Inca king stood his ground against the Spanish. Sadly, the Spanish destroyed the site almost entirely and used the stones from the site to build their churches around Cusco. It’s amazing how they shaped and carved the huge stones and moved them into place. The people who did the carving were not slaves but actual workers.
After visiting Qenqo and Saqsaywaman, my guide took me to a special hotel restaurant for appetizers and a signature cocktail — mine was a mocktail. Afterward, my guide dropped me off at my hotel, and I thanked him for guiding me all week. It was great to have a knowledgeable guide who showed me all the sites and explained them in a way that was actually intelligent, unlike some guides who try to sell a load of alternative theories.
Once back at the hotel, I went out to the inner courtyard for a bit and had some mint tea before heading back to my room. I decided to look for a nice alpaca sweater and some souvenirs, and I found both in one shop. After buying two ceramic bulls and a sweater, I headed to La Osteria for lunch, where I had pizza and tiramisu. After lunch, I walked back through Plaza de Armas to take a photo of the Igelsia de la Compañía de Jesús, then headed back to the hotel. After my shower, I started feeling like I had either a head cold or severe allergies.
Day Eight - 10 September 2026 - Flights, dealing with illness and crappy airports
I woke up with a runny nose, got ready for the day, packed my travel bag and venture sling, and went downstairs for breakfast, where I had pastries, orange juice, and muna tea. I then went back up to my room to rest and recover before my late checkout today. I napped before I had to check out.
For lunch, I ate at Inkazuela and had a lamb stew and a brownie with lucuma ice cream. The meal was delicious. After lunch, I went back to the hotel and waited for my flight to the airport, the first of three flights home. The rep and driver arrived at 4:45 pm to take me to the airport, and the rep helped me with my bag to the security screening area, which was most appreciated. After going through security the main gate was right there. In fact, the Cusco airport only has 5 gates. It was a short wait before the plane started boarding.
The flight to Lima was smooth. The airport, however, was a different story. A German firm designed it, and you have to walk miles to get around. The Belmond representative, Jorge, met me in the arrivals area and showed me where the international terminal's security line was.
I got through security and the exit immigration area, then made my way to The Club lounge. The lounge was extremely busy. These days, everyone and their pets have lounge access. As boarding time approached, I headed for a 3-mile walk to the gate for the flight to Atlanta. They conducted a secondary 100 mL liquids check of carry-on luggage. The flight to Atlanta was smooth, but I had a hard time getting to sleep, not because of the lie-flat seats, but because I could not get comfortable enough to fall asleep.
Once in Atlanta, it was hectic as always. Global Entry was smooth. TSA felt like something from 2002. Everyone had to take off their belts. There was no TSA PreCheck lane. TSA in Atlanta for connecting flights felt a bit dated technologically. Once through there, I was on my way into the hotter-than-hell labyrinth that is the ATL plane train. I made my way to the B concourse, and the gate was just about the last one on the concourse. Once home in BNA, I was glad I had scheduled a private-hire limo service to take me home.
My final thoughts on the trip. I was overwhelmed by how amazing every part of the trip was—from the Belmond staff to the tour guide, Ruben, to the staff on the Hiram Bingham Train. I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and Cusco. If there is one reason to make this trip yourself, it is that alpacas are amazing, docile, kind, and smart creatures. But when it comes time to eat, nothing gets in their way 😊.